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= Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 = Welcome to the RepRap wiki page! This will serve as a knowledge base for everything we've worked out on the RepRap Folgertech 2020 Forum Thread and various other places. Build Tips & Tricks Folgertech Build Manual Errors & Errata The information in this wiki and the info here: https://github.com/cyberkni/FolgertechManuals/tree/master/2020i3 are meant to address the common issues that arise when building this printer. Please read both since it's not clear which source will be the most up-to-date. The link is a revised version of Folgertech's official build instructions (with pictures). Under more recent development is https://docs.google.com/document/d/1eFqViNT0CsEdvpz9_bgYhEBXHmNKKkTfeloEk1y3swg/edit?usp=sharing, which contains a Bill of Materials, a revision log, and is having detailed pictured added to it in an ongoing basis. Disclaimer for bad boards, wrong screws, etc. We need to address the X-endstop problems here, and probably recommend putting it on the left Assembly Issues * Angle brackets - One of the first steps is to mount some angle brackets with M4 bolts. The heads of these bolts are not really big enough to hold the brackets securely. Pushing the bolts to the ends of the slots can get by but it's best to add some washers under the heads. * Loose SK8 brackets - The chrome rods for the Y axis are supported by 4 SK8 brackets. It's often difficult or impossible to tighten these enough to actually hold the rods securely. A few wraps of tape can be used around the rods to help the brackets grip better. * Z axis motor mounting - The instructions call for using 3 screws and T nuts to mount each motor. This will result in a misaligned printer! The 3rd screw that goes into the vertical 20x20 extrusion should be left out and only the two that go into the top horizontal extrusion should be used. When fully assembled the two vertical chrome rods should be parallel to each other and the vertical frame. * Heated bed position -''' If the instructions are followed the writing on the heated bed will be upside down when installed. If you aren't ok with that then the solder connections should face the front and the wires should run under the bed before coming out the back. * '''Extrusion Motor - If you follow the directions for plugging the extrusion motor into the ramps board then the extrusion motor will spin backward. Simply flip the extrusion motor plug over (so the red wire is to the left) and plug it back into the ramps board. Now your extrusion motor should spin in the correct direction. Common Problems / Issues * Hotend Thermister - The way the thermister is mounted in the hot end with a brass ferule crimped over it often leads to problems. The crimping can sever a lead from the thermister or break through the insulation over the leads and cause shorts. A quick check with an Ohm meter can diagnose many thermister issues. Replacement thermisters are easily found on Amazon and ebay. * Poor Soldering '- The RAMPS boards, Arduino boards and other printed circuits provided by Folger often have poor quality workmanship. Before powering them it's a good idea to inspect for any solder bridges (multiple pins connected together) or missing solder connections. * '''Missing Parts '- Folger seems to have gotten better about this lately but just because all of the listed parts are included doesn't mean there may not be "missing" parts due to changes in the parts provided vs. what's listed in the manual. Sometimes longer or shorter bolts or different styles of bolts may be substituted. It's also not uncommon to receive parts that aren't even used in the build. Print Quality / Troubleshooting If you're having issue with print quality check out these two guides... * Simplify3D Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide * Ulitmaker troubleshooting guide (3DVERKSTAN) Communities and Helpful Links Reprap Forum Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) Reprap Forum Thread Unofficial Search by Animoose Reddit Folger Tech Page Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 Build Blogs Moosteria.blogspot.com How To Links Cleaning the Hotend - www.youtube.com Marlin Firmware Upgrade The version of Marlin that Folgertech has put together is pretty outdated. It does not include a lot of new features (like autolevel) and bug fixes. It is recommended that you upgrade to this version, which is the latest release version of Marlin with the Folgertech configuration settings merged in. Please note that you will need to make some changes to your printer to get this working correctly/properly (unless you moved your X-endstop to the left side): * Move your X-endstop connection on your RAMPS board one set of pins over, to position 6 * In your host software, change X-endstop setting to MAX You can use Beyond Compare 4 to compare your old Marlin verison to the latest version. Basic Upgrades Raising the Z-axis motors This is a simple print upgrade that will recover some height lost by the Z-axis motors being mounted directly on the top rail. Print these raisers to gain about 40mm of print height. Advanced Upgrades V-Slot Y-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds) This is a Y-Axis upgrade which replaces the cheap linear bearings and 8mm rods with an Openbuilds (OB) V-Slot Gantry and rail system. Noise reduction is huge with this upgrade, accuracy is increased and overall stiffness of the Y-Axis is also increased. This system is up and running on my printer along with a few others (although there are a few variation in the assembly). It is still a work in progress but can be completed in it's current state. More info and STL's can be found HERE Photo Gallery can be found HERE Gen-2 Is in the works, it utilizes an offset belt drive system which in turn will allow the main rail to be cut within the original boundaries of the frame work. This design is being developed to allow an enclosure to be used while still providing the original build volume. It should require no additional OB hardware to complete, only a few printed parts will vary. V-Slot X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds) This is a X-Axis upgrade which replaces the cheap linear bearings and 8mm rods with an Openbuilds (OB) V-Slot Mini Gantry and rail system. There will also be two iterations of this upgrade, Gen-1 and Gen-2. Gen-1 is a standard verison, it is setup vary similar to the original verison with the stepper motor extending out beyond the frame work. Noise reduction is huge with this upgrade, accuracy is increased and overall stiffness of the X-Axis is also increased. This system is up and running on my printer along with a few others (although there are a few variation in the assembly). It is still a work in progress but can be completed in it's current state. More info and STL's can be found HERE Photo Gallery can be found HERE Gen-2 will once again move the rail and stepper motor within the original boundaries of the frame work. This design is also being developed to allow an enclosure to be used while still providing the original build volume. It will require some additional OB hardware to complete, and printed parts will vary. 'Currently in development and testing: ' STL's have been released for Gen-1 Gen-2 is installed in the testing phase. Preview photos of Gen-1 can be found HERE All About Autolevel The Basics: '''Proximity Sensor (Inductive or Capacitive) First upgrade to therippa's version of Marlin found here. The X-endstop will also need to be moved to the left side of the X-carriage. Marlin changes: The following changes to the configuration.h file are necessary. Note: these instructions are for an inductive sensor, such as LJ18A3-8-Z/AX, for other types of sensors, other changes may be necessary. Note: if the line has a title it it's been included here to make it easier to find the line that needs changing, below it are only the lines that need changed (lines that remain unchanged have been omitted here, if it has no title, only the line that needs changed is noted. // Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup). const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. //changed to false for auto bed level sensor (inductive type) #define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than the initial HOME_POS. //changed to false // Travel limits after homing (units are in mm) #define Z_MIN_POS -5 // was 0 changed to -5 to allow Z to go below initial home level on unlevel bed where another corner was lower than initial home level NOTE: The values below will need to be changed to match your setup, the Z value MUST be negative or your nozzle will crash into the bed before the sensor tells it to stop. // Offsets to the Z probe relative to the nozzle tip. // X and Y offsets must be integers. #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z probe to nozzle X offset: -left +right //was 36 #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 39.2 // Z probe to nozzle Y offset: -front +behind //was 1 #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.6 // Z probe to nozzle Z offset: -below (always!) //was -0.2 end of Marlin/configuration.h changes. BLtouch Sensor: Note: These instruction are based on Marilin 1.1.0RC3, they are a guideline to get you close. You will be responsible for your own fine tuning based on your current printers mechanical configuration. EX: Lead Screw Type - Extruder Type (Bowden/Direct) - Dual Extruders - Etc. The BLtouch Sensor operates in the same exact manner as a Servo/Micro Switch setup but is in one small package. The only moving part is a small aluminum probe with a magnet attached to the top of it. It can be purchased directly from the manufacture HERE: Mechanical Setup: If not already done the X-endstop will need to be moved to the left side of the X-carriage. You will need a mount for the sensor, there are a few on thingi, but you might need to design your own based on your extruder and X-Axis of choice. When designing a mount keep in mind that the retracted position of the probe needs to be above the height of the Nozzle, and the extended position below. I know this sounds obvious, but many people have made this mistake. Electrical Setup: If you are going to use the 5V power directly from the Ramps Board make sure you install the a jumper between Vcc & 5V (see videos below) so power is supplied the the servo rail. Some people have success with this setup others have had problems. If you are experiencing abnormal behavior in the BLtouch (or your servo setup) try using a separate power source. This can be done with either a voltage regulator wired into the Ramps Board or a small power supply similar to a table phone charger. Marlin Setup/Changes: First upgrade to 1.1.0RC3 or therippa's version of Marlin (see Prox Sensor above) Make the following changes In your Configuration.h file. 1. Invert Z min const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; #define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN //#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS 2. Enable servo and set endstop angles to the S codes provided by BLTouch: #define NUM_SERVOS 3 (this can be 1, 2 or 3, it shouldn't matter) #define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 #define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES 3. Enable AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE and Z_SAFE_HOMING: #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line) #define Z_SAFE_HOMING // Set these appropriately for the size of your printer // These are set for for my FT Printer #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 50 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150 #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 50 #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150 // Set the number of grid points per dimension. // You probably don't need more than 3 (squared=9). #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 3 4. Check your BLTouch sensor offset to your extruder!! #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -25 // Z probe to nozzle X offset: -left +right #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z probe to nozzle Y offset: -front +behind #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -5.0 // Z probe to nozzle Z offset: -below (always!) 5. Motherboard configuration to the following: Single Extruder: #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB Dual Extruders: #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEB Final Setup: Using the manual controls on your printer host run G28 and make sure it works. Run G28 immediately followed by G29 to make sure Auto Leveling is working. Then add the G29 command to your Start G-Code just after G28. Note: You can add this line "M280 P0 S160" before G28, it is an "Alarm Release" which will assure your Bltouch it not in "Alarm Mode" prior to printing. Use one of the following videos to complete the hotend offset settings. Tom's Guides Great all around guide, normally used for an inductive sensor bout the final setup applies to the BLt as well ZennmasterM This is a 3 part guide, parts 2 and 3 explain the firmware changes and final setup. Greg Nutt This is specific to the BLtouch, not a guide but the Config-h changes above came from this video Setup Notes: Some people have had to comment out the EPROM, if you can't get it to work you can try this: //#define EEPROM_SETTINGS //#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT Servo/Micro Switch Setup: Setup: The Servo/Micro Switch setup should be identical the the BLtouch setup above with one exception, you need to set your SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES in the Marlin Firmware (config-h file). #define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES It will be the last two values (in bold print above). Follow the guide in ZinnmasterM's Video Series to determine the angles of the arm for your printer.